Samantha Pleet

Samantha Pleet grew up outside Philadelphia.  These days she lives in Brooklyn where she just completed her Fall '07 line.

Sexy, sophisticated forest-nyph clothing...


Chief Magazine: Where are you from?

Samantha Pleet: I'm from Philly.

Like, city Philly?

Well, like 20 minutes outside of the city. I actually grew up right along the border, between the “actual city” and “not the city.” I was actually surrounded by nature; it was near the end of Fairmont Park which was pretty inspiring to me growing up because it was a really magical place. It was just forests upon forests, and there'd be these crazy mansions that were old and decrepit that you could play in. It was really incredible.

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And so, the fall collection show is going to be a forest motif?

Yeah. You know, it's funny because I never really did camping or anything, but I've always been fascinated by that. Like when I went to Norway and we climbed a mountain in the forest, it was the most beautiful thing I'd ever seen.

When did you go to Norway?

I went there two summers ago.

For a holiday?

We went there for a holiday, to vacation and see it. I needed to get some fresh air; I'd been in New York for too long. We went to Stockholm, Copenhagen and all through Scandinavia which was so inspiring. We went to this one Island which was called Goethelands. It's off of Copenhagen and there were crazy people dressed up in medieval clothes. We were like “what the hell is going on here?” I guess we had stumbled upon a renaissance festival of some sort, and I'd never been to one before. It was like, everyone seems to go there. It was all these random people, and there was this crazy music and dancing. But I'm in love with their clothes; I wish that I could dress like that every day.

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So, how would you describe your clothing style?

It's for an adventure. You can wear it out for dinner, or climbing a mountain. It's really comfy. It's almost like playing “dress-up” a little bit; it has a sort of majestic feel. I'm kind of inspired by dandies, but women dandies instead of men. You know, but made into cute outfits for girls. It can look a little dusty, like it came out of a trunk that it'd been in for a hundred years or something. I love antique clothing. When I travel I always try to find antique military shops, I'm totally inspired by that kind of stuff.

I like how your clothes are kind of subtle, insomuch as it works depending on whatever environment it's in. We could put you on the top of a mountain and it would work, or you could put it in a candlelit dinner setting, it could take on that environment as well.

That's what I'm thinking with dandies, you could do anything in those clothes. Because it's always not put together so sharply, but it always looks good. You could wear it every day for a month and it would still look good.

Do you recommend that?

Oh yeah. I like the way clothes wear out. I think it looks beautiful.

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As a kid were you always cutting and sewing?

Always, I used to play dress up a lot. I used to have this trunk full of fabric, and I would just pull out fabric and make clothes and drape them on friends and give everyone a character. My parents thought that I was completely insane and were worried that I would never understand what reality was.

So do you feel like you have a good grip on reality now?

Yes. It was just fun. I wanted to be an actress; I think that's where that came from.

In that regard, why is it not costume design for film or theater, but fashion?

Well you should make your own character every day. It's more fun for me to feel special, to want to express myself.

So what kind of clothes do you wear when you're not wearing Samantha Pleet clothes?

I love clothes that just kind of work with my clothes. I like APC. Really, APC is like the only place I shop. Vintage too, I'm totally into vintage. I've always worn those clothes.

Any specific stores in the city or in Brooklyn that you like?

Well, I used to go to Ghost Town but that closed down. It was my favorite. Honestly, I love going to Salvation Armies. Those are my favorite, because you can find the most amazing things. In Philadelphia that's where I used to go. You can really find some gems.

Mostly vintage shops in the city though, like Amacord, a lot of the stores in the east village and on the lower east side. I really just do a loop. Atomic Passion, that's a really good one, on Ninth Street by the park. I kind of do a route where I get off at Fourteenth Street, walk through the east village and then go to the lower east side, and then to Soho and Mercer and then come back.

When you go do you have something in mind that you're looking for, or are you just browsing?

Well, if I do have something in mind sometimes I'll find it and it'll be amazing, but usually no. Then it's more of a surprise, that's what I like about it the most. You never know what you're going to find.

Your clothes are starting to get some serious attention, you've been in Elle, you're in Nylon, Vice twice, Fader, a couple of websites like Daily Candy...

And I'm going to be on Refinery 29. It's a good industry website, I read all the time. It's kind of a hip version of Women's Wear Daily I would say. I also dress lots of bands, too.

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So do the bands wear your clothes during the show or photo shoots?

Yes, actually. Aur Revoir Simone is a band that I dress. I did their press photos and I helped style their shoot. We used all my clothes. Then they also did a performance with David Lynch at the Barnes and Noble, and they wore the clothes for that. Then they wear it when they go on tour. Actually I'm using them to do my Look Book because they're just so cute, and they really work with it. They said to me “it's almost like you designed your clothes for us, this is exactly what we love.

Who are the girls on your website, as models?

That's my friend Stephanie, she's my model right now. She's also going to be in the Look Book. I'm always going to use Stephanie. Everything fits her perfectly all the time.

So do you design the clothes with her in mind?

No I design the clothes with me in mind only. I design exactly what I want and can't find in stores.

So you studied fashion at Pratt, and graduated in 2004?

No, 2005. I ended up doing five years instead of four because I transferred from fine arts into fashion. I wanted to be a painter and a sculptor, I wasn't sure yet.

Do you still do any of that kind of work?

I have to get back into it. I used to want to do music, also. I grew up learning the violin, clarinet, guitar, piano, I took voice lessons. I also used to study dance. I have ADD so I like to do lots and lots of things.

What made you realize that you wanted to focus on fashion?

It kind of just happened, very organically.

While you were at Pratt?

Actually, while I was at Pratt I wasn't sure if I wanted to do fashion at all. I didn't know what I wanted to do. It was really when I started working in the field that I realized I wanted to do it. I don't really like technical things too much or too much meticulousness but I am a perfectionist and I like it to look really good, but I just couldn't see myself sitting there sewing all day long. I was kind of discouraged but then I realized that you could do whatever you wanted in fashion, it doesn't have to be like “you have to move this down two inches to the left” or something like that. That wasn't what I was interested in, I wanted more freedom.

What was the process like from graduating to now: coming out with your third collection getting all this press?

It was kind of interesting. My friend Sarah worked at Ghost Town actually, and I walked in with my really crappy Look Book that I had made myself with me modeling. She was like “you know I think the clothes are really wonderful, you need a new Look Book. We can turn this into something that will help you.” So we shot a new Look Book with Stephanie. It just looked so professional. My friend was the photographer and he took it, and we just kind of worked together, we fell into a group of people who were really supportive and went to work together.

So the first collection was that first Look Book, and when the next season rolled around were you like “Oh fuck, I have to make another collection” or were you already working on something?

I'm always working on stuff, yeah. I feel like it's just a constant process, I'm always thinking about it. I like to not think about what I'm going to do, I like to go away, and get away from the city and then think about what I want to do.

So that was the trip to Norway.

That was for my first collection. It was when I realized what I wanted to make. I saw the exact vision of what I wanted to wear everyday, and I couldn't find it anywhere. But I also think that I have some of my friends in mind when I design the clothes too, it's not just for me. I share it with a few other people.

So what's your dream? Is it to rival store-wise with APC?

I don't think I would rival with APC. They make really great basics that I think would flow really well with my collection. I have plans to just see where it takes me, but I want a fashion show every season, and be able to afford to make it a really good show, and have people that I could hire, but I never want to work in a stiff environment. That's not a goal of mine, ever. It would be nice to have an actual studio with big tables and patterned paper and more.

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Your clothes are available in New York, Philly, London, LA, so why live in New York?

I love New York. I've traveled a lot, and I find that there's no place like it here, especially in Brooklyn. I really don't think that it exists anywhere else. The closest I would say would be Paris. If I could live anywhere else, that's where I would live.

What do you think makes Paris and New York similar in that respect?

You can find the most wonderful things in the world for really cheap, and you don't need to spend a million dollars on them. There's a grittiness to the cities that I really like too. You never know what's going to happen around the next corner, it's exciting. You get to meet the most fascinating people, see the best art, hear the best music. I just think it's the most inspiring and stimulating place in the world. I think New York more so than Paris, with the art and music thing.

How does Brooklyn factor into it?

Well I think that's just where everybody lives. And I love Brooklyn, I've lived here for seven years, since I started school.

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What kind of stuff did you wear when you were a kid? Did you have mismatched shoelaces and everything?

I was always made fun of for what I wore. I was the craziest girl in my school with fashion. People would be like “the '70s are over!” I had my vintage Levi bellbottoms, holes in the knees and my Vans sneakers a ball chain necklace. That's really when I was in middle school. I wore all vintage clothes, and had big hair with these white streaks in it. I was crazy. I used to do all my shopping in New York at Antique Boutique and Hotel Venus. I was always interested in fashion and doing my own thing. I grew up in an area where everyone was very straight, and like, Abercrombie. I never even had one item from there. Even as a kid my mom would dress me in the weirdest clothing. I would have matching socks to my matching sweater with big things coming off of it and stretch pants that were tie-dyed, so I was always kind of crazy.

What does your mom do?

She makes furniture. She's actually made some of the furniture in this house. She made the cabinets. I wish I had more of her things. She's very influenced by the southwest and the '80s, my grandfather too. They were both woodworkers. My grandfather actually made shoes. [points to picture] That's a picture of my great grandfather playing the mandolin,
which I have.

So what's your family history, where are they from?

I think they're from Easter Europe and Germany.

So do you play music anymore?

It's funny, my friend just gave me her old violin so I'm going to start practicing that and I have the mandolin too. I haven't picked up the violin in about fifteen years, and I picked it up and could actually play it. I sound pretty good, do you want to hear?

Sure.

Well, I can't play a song, but I can make it tune. [Violin sounds ensue] My mom gave away my clarinet after I used it, I was so angry. Then my guitar completely died recently I have to get a new one. Just awful. I actually have my old keyboard that I brought up too. I think it's mine from when I was eight. I'm very sentimental. I like to find things in my travels, it inspires me.

[rifling through her belongings, and finding a carnival mask.] Where'd you get this from?

Venice. I love Venice, I was just there. It was so beautiful, very inspiring.

I was there for Carnivale last year.

Next year I'm going for Carnivale. I was there just a few months ago actually. During the winter I love it the most because it's not too crowded.

And the fog kind of creeps around.

We got there, we took a midnight train from Rome where we had our own little sleeper. So when we woke up we were in Venice at five in the morning and there was nobody on the streets. It was really cold, but it was just so beautiful. We couldn't figure out how to get into our hotel, so we just kind of waited around until nine in the morning before we went there. I actually first went with my parents when I was about sixteen, and then with Patrick, my fiancé. I'm engaged!

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Congratulations.

Thank you. We've been going out for seven years.

Since you moved to New York?

Yeah. He's from Philadelphia too. We actually grew up about seven minutes away from each other. We didn't know each other but we went to middle school together. I guess he didn't forget me with my crazy clothes.

What does Patrick do?

He goes to the University of Pennsylvania for architecture; he has one more semester left.
We work together too; we're going to maybe start something bigger. Architecture you can really do anything. He helps me with all the graphic design. We do all the marketing, all the bags, everything by ourselves.

He travels with you to some of these places?

Yeah, he always travels with me, we always travel together. Actually he was living in London for four months and I went there. I was so inspired by the British passion. So for my next collection it's a combination of both British and Venice fashion.

How would you describe this collection again? Something about adventure?

It's almost like, gestures and dandies and wizards throughout time. Adventures throughout time. People who have been left out of the history books. Characters. When I travel I always love taking pictures of strange people. I was in Prague and I took a picture of this wizard walking by.

So where do you want to go to next?

I've never been to Russia, I'd love to go to Russia. Finland too. And South America, I've never been there either.

So do you eat Philly Cheese steaks?

I have maybe three times in my life. I've had some bad Philly cheesesteak experiences.

What's your favorite kind of food?

Actually, my favorite kind of food would be French.

Do you speak French?

Yeah. I studied French for a little bit. It always fades away when I'm not in Paris but whenever I'm there it just comes back.

Use it or lose it. So your spring line is coming out next week you said?

In a few weeks. [available now] It's going to start arriving in stores. It's actually going to be sold at Stewart and Wright in Brooklyn. I went to school with my friend Alec, who opened it. He was in my class. It's on South Portland and Lafayette.

And the show is for the upcoming collection?

Yeah, it's for the upcoming fall collection. I used a lot of velvets and corduroys.

Do you envision it and just make it, or do you sketch it out first?

I do sketches, but really small ones. I kind of just know what it looks like in my head.

How many of a piece do you usually make?

I usually produce enough for all the stores in which I sell. So it's not oversaturated. I like the boutique scene, and I'm really into supporting stores that I have contacts with. It's fun for me.

How does that transfer over to the press that you've gotten? Do they contact you after seeing your website or your stuff in stores?

They either see it in the store, or through other press that I've received. We had a party too. I think that's kind of how you have to start, by having a really good party. Mine was at Ghost Town. We had a band playing, it was fun. Then we had the fashion show last season and we sent out mailers to buyers and press people and people genuinely liked the clothes. It wasn't because of my name or because they heard of it. It was more like “wait, what is this, it's cute, I want this. It's different.” So that's why I think you have to do something that's completely your own, right from your own head.

Certainly with the different collections you're thinking about the winter, but most of your clothes are short.

I wear it. Because I wear wool tights. I also have pants, but I don't like skirts that go down to your knee. I hate wearing a jacket with skirts that touch your knee. I can't. Otherwise I wear jeans. That's why I wear jeans and corduroy pants because I'll wear that, or I'll wear something short. I don't really see any people wearing anything different than that.

What kind of shoes do you rock with your stuff?

I wear dance shoes, definitely. I love Capizio heels. Actually, all the models at the fashion show are going to be wearing them. I also have lace-up boots. Ankle boots are cute. I love boots, vintage boots, everything.

How does that work logistically to go from the materials, to making the clothes, to actually putting on the show?

It takes months. You don't see the results right away, but it's great because you do see them as their happening. Because then if you have an idea, it's not too late. You can be like “I'm gonna throw that in.” I'm that kind of person that up until the moment of the show I'll still be making things.

So do you approach stores with a Look Book, or is it show by show?

I send them a Look book and an invitation. There are also companies I like to show my clothes with. There's Wowch T-shirts. They're amazing. We're showing them at the Chelsea. It's good because I'm not competing with them; they do T-shirts. I had my after party for the show with them last year. So are Black Sheep and Prodigal Son.

Any shout outs?

There's Sarah from Ghost Town press who's helped me out so much, she's been a great friend. She's starting a PR company and she's just kind of giving herself to a bunch of designers that really need her. She's the one who found the line and I showed her first. Au Revoir Simone, of course. My friend Jessica has a line called Well Revered and she's doing all the jewelry at the show as well as the music. She's fantastic; she used to be in the band, The Red Coats are Coming.

Where do you go when you go out?

Just bars or parties. I'm not really a big club person. I just need to go out with my friends. I don't go out too much honestly. Just enough so I can relax. Go hear some music. I like to support local bands because I'm a local designer. We're all growing together.

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Website

www.samanthapleet.com

Photos

Ed Zipco, of Samantha
Model shots courtesy of S. Pleet

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